“As consumers, we have so much power to change the world by just being careful in what we buy” ~Emma Watson
Today, I want to talk about hazardous toxins in your clothes and how these affect the environment and your health. There is so much to say and yet to discover, so you will find more on this topic in the Biekaleidscope journal moving forward. This article is about highlighting the factors to take into account when wearing and purchasing garments. I also want to show that the fashion industry is not black & white, due to its long production chain.
Ethical and sustainable fashion is unregulated and there is no one solution. I wish to provide you information that will lead to making more conscious choices. Together we can demand a change in the toxic fashion industry, because every time we buy new clothing, it’s a small vote for the world we want to see.
Biek & fashion
It came as no surprise that I would have a career in fashion. Since I was very young I knew I wanted to study fashion (or work with babies, but that’s something for another article). When I got to an age to find a job, I knew I wanted to work in retail. Since I was a huge fan of H&M back then, I wrote a handwritten letter to the shop and due to my enthusiasm, I was hired. This was a time when Zara had yet to be opened (that happened within a year), so H&M was a leader in the fast fashion industry.
I was not aware that all of that cheap clothing has huge consequences
Fast fashion
I saw the fast fashion industry grow first hand. The piles and piles of garments that people bought in one go were something I didn’t really take note of back then. I was also not aware that all of that cheap clothing has huge consequences. Both for our health, the environment, and for the people making our clothing. And it only went down from there. More fast fashion chains, or high fashion brands as they’re so often called nowadays (and which has less of a bad rep) arose, which led to more competition, lower prices, and therefore, lower quality clothes.
Why is that? Well, clothing is fabric after all. So, we really need to look at the quality of fabrics. And it turns out that a huge percentage are made of synthetic fiber: polyester. Cotton is no longer king.
What are synthetics?
Synthetics are man-made fibers, derived from fossil fuels – the bi-product of the process that turns crude oil into its many usable fuel forms. The most common fabrics are polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex, and lyocell. These are fabrics that you most likely find in the care labels of most of your garments. Spandex and lyocell, or elastane, are in a lot of our clothes – we like it when garments are stretchy.
Synthetic fabrics suffocate your skin and anyone who’s worn polyester on a hot summer day probably knows. Heat is trapped in the body, you sweat more, and it restricts the release of the toxins. The fabric also traps odors. A study shows that skin germs found in sweat are not absorbed by synthetic fibers, which creates an environment for smelly bacteria to grow. And when you think about it, it makes sense. We wear petroleum and plastics. On our body!
The way and pace of how new clothes are made are truly unsustainable
Synthetics and the environment
Synthetics, just like plastics, take ages to break down. Additionally, synthetic fibers will shed microfibers when you wash them. These microfibers enter our water systems and ultimately end up in our oceans. The fish are consuming these microplastics, and we consume fish. It’s a cycle that should not exist. The fact is that the way and pace of how new clothes are made are truly unsustainable and it requires a staggering level of resources that can’t continue.
Natural fibers
When I started this journey, I was convinced that choosing natural fibers is always the way forward. But as soon as I started to do more research, I found out that this is not (always) the case. As I mentioned earlier, sustainable fashion is not regulated, and so this means that labeling something ‘sustainable’ is quite easy to do.
Natural fibers are plant produce and therefore biodegradable. This means that when a garment is discarded, it eventually decomposes into soil. Some examples of natural fibers are cotton, wool, linen, hemp, bamboo, and silk. Cotton is by far the most commonly used plant fiber, but it is also enormously resource-intensive. It needs high inputs of water, pesticides, insecticides, and fertilizers which leaves a large toxic footprint.
Organic cotton
An exception is organic cotton – there are no pesticides, insecticides, and fertilizers involved. But this does not mean that it’s a complete sustainable supply chain overall, as there are still so many more factors involved in having the garment in your closet. Natural fibers, whether organic or not, will still produce methane as they decompose, which is a major contributor to climate change.
Toxic chemicals
No matter what you’re wearing, the clothing on your body went through a long, resource-intensive production process. All textiles are made up of fibers that are designed in different ways to create the desired strength, durability, appearance and texture. Even natural fibers like cotton and wool could have been created using heavily toxic chemicals and energy-intensive processes to make these fire-, odor-, stain-, water- and wrinkle-resistant. Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon pull even more chemicals into the mix.
8000 chemicals in our clothes
Fashion is currently in a crisis and it’s time to make radical changes – and you are in charge! Whilst doing research, I found out that there were some very concerning health issues regarding the quality of clothing. According to Wilson Oryema, there are 8000 different chemicals used to create our clothing. These are hazardous chemicals that could cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, and asthma (just to name a few). There is evidence that some chemicals are linked to cancer, some disrupt the hormonal system, and others can cause reproductive issues.
Why are there so many toxic chemicals allowed to be used in our clothes?
Connection chemicals, clothes, and illness
Repeated exposure to chemicals accumulates over time, and this concerns experts. While scientists are trying to study the connection between chemicals, clothes, and illness, the fact remains that there are increased rates of cancers, respiratory problems, and skin irritations. There are too many unknowns to assure consumers that it is safe to be exposed to harmful chemicals.
Toxins in garments linked to people’s health
However, during research, I found out that there are some really clear examples of toxins in garments that are linked to people’s health.
- In 2016 (and ongoing towards 2018), American Airlines pilots and flight attendants got new uniforms and thousands of them showed severe reactions, including breathing problems, severe skin rashes, and breathing problems are just to name a few. Passengers complained of bloody noses and even a baby developed a rash after being held by a flight attendant. Is that all a coincidence? I don’t think so!
- In 2017, Primark recalled 3 colors of a specific flip-flop from the men’s department, because they contained high levels of a cancer-causing chemical called chrysene, used for dark-colored dyes.
- Also in 2017, shoe brand Dr. Martens pulled select vegan boots off shelves after finding traces of an undisclosed chemical.
why are toxic chemicals allowed?
Obviously, it’s positive that companies are taking responsibility for pulling these items. However, it still raises an important question; why are there so many toxic chemicals allowed to be used in our clothes? And why is this not regulated? And think about the people involved in earlier processes, like farmers and factory workers. How are they protected?
Moving forward
This blog post may make you feel discouraged, so it’s time to talk about what we can do moving forward, and I also want to emphasize that there are amazing brands and companies that have the best interest at heart for our health, the planet, and the workers who make our clothing. And we can help support them. My goal is to shed light on all these companies in the near future, so you can decide which aspect of sustainability is important for you.
The choices we make while purchasing have a significant impact on society and the environment. The way we buy, wear, care for, and dispose of our clothes gives an active voice. Fashion has a long and complex supply chain that is not black and white. As consumers, we like easy answers like ‘yes to this’, and ‘no to that’, but judging how sustainable something really is, requires context.
We’re always going to need clothing
100% synthetic fibers
I want to encourage you to completely stop purchasing clothing made of a 100% synthetic fabric, as it’s a fairly easy thing to do. It will be more challenging to avoid small percentages. Because we enjoy the comfort of stretchy jeans, and nylon is often used in combination with wool to avoid the pilling of the fabric.
However, it’s hard to imagine a bathing suit or activewear without synthetic materials. There is a reason that we moved forward in developing high-performance clothing, and it elevates our experience when we workout. And I think for these categories it’s an ingredient that we cannot avoid.
Sustainable brands
Luckily, there are developments in sustainable brands for swimwear and activewear. You can find more about these soon in the journal. Additionally, there are loads of companies dealing with the huge responsibility we have to take care of our oceans and ultimately our own health. You can look into purchasing a Guppyfriend when washing your synthetics, to avoid leaving microfibers in the water system. And even some new washing machines have a microfiber function.
Awareness
We’re always going to need clothing, that is a fact. You can take small personal steps, and build on that. Do you want to start with purchasing vintage clothing? Do you want to wear brands that are known for sustainability, or fair employment practices? See all the good things you can do and celebrate those successes.
But most of all, check the care label. Start being aware of what is in your closet and what you purchase.
Checklist
Here’s a small checklist:
- Stay as close to natural fabrics as possible, which means more organic cotton and wools
- Try to avoid synthetic fabrics like nylon and polyester as much as possible, because those are the biggest polluters on all levels.
- Stay clear from labels like ‘wrinkle-free’ and ‘stain-resistant’ to limit your exposure to additional chemicals.
- Turn the garments inside out and see how the seams are finished.
- And ultimately, love what you buy and be a conscious keeper.
What will your first step be after knowing all this?
Thank you for reading.
We’re in this together.
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